Sustainable jewellery is reshaping fashion, but can it outshine fast fashion?

Sustainable jewellery is reshaping fashion, but can it outshine fast fashion?

The sustainable jewellery market operates on three core principles: manufacturing for demand without overproduction, recycling precious metals while using Fairtrade or conflict-free stones, and reviving and empowering artisans’ livelihoods through timeless designs.

Approaches Towards Sustainability

Approaches to sustainability vary across brands. Some focus on cultural sustainability—reviving traditional art forms and supporting artisans—while others prioritise economic sustainability or environmental sustainability, depending on their founding ideology.

Brand Baka, founded during the pandemic by sustainability graduate Rebecca Reubens, takes a holistic approach. Baka collaborates with out-of-work carvers, setters, formers, and bead-stringing artisans from Bengal, Jaipur, and beyond, ensuring clean material use, durable designs, and a slow, ethical business model.

“We do not use casting because we aim to minimise metal usage, keeping our pieces lightweight and reducing transportation energy. Our gemstones are not from China; they are hand-cut and cannot be cast. We use recycled silver,” explains Reubens.

Jewellery accounts for 7.2% of the portfolio of Okhai, a non-profit online store. “With over 500 designs, we constantly innovate sustainably,” says Manorath Dhillon, CEO & Trustee of Okhai. “Our USP includes lost-wax casting, which produces intricate brass designs without mass production or excessive waste. We use natural and upcycled threads for crochet jewellery, and recycled metal, wood pulp, and glass beads instead of plastic.” Okhai currently employs 537 artisans, preserving indigenous art forms like Dokra, crochet, and handcrafted metalwork jewellery.

Consumers & Conscious Choices

While true sustainability requires more than just conscious consumerism, awareness has led to a rising shift in purchasing behaviour.

“The market for sustainable jewellery is growing as people see demi-fine jewellery as the perfect middle ground between affordability and luxury,” says Pallavi Mohadikar, CEO & Founder of Palmonas, a brand backed by Bollywood actress Shraddha Kapoor.

Rising gold prices—a 14% increase since FY24—have further driven demand. The Investment, Information & Credit Rating Agency (ICRA) predicts that recycled gold’s share will rise by 400-600 basis points in FY25.

Sustainable jewellery appeals to fashion-driven urban professionals seeking unique, conversational pieces; sustainability advocates prioritising ethical fashion; handicraft enthusiasts who value traditional Indian craftsmanship; and gift buyers looking for meaningful, artisan-made products. This passionate consumer base, primarily independent, creative women aged 25-65, appreciates statement-making jewellery.

The Current Landscape

Sustainability should balance the entire market spectrum, says image coach & designer Babitha Jaishankar. “It aims to minimise waste, but just because a product is created, it shouldn’t be dumped into the market. Sustainability isn’t just about minimalism either,” she explains.

Growth in sustainable jewellery remains gradual, as small brands compete with fast fashion for market share. “More accessibility, affordability, and education could lead to wider adoption,” notes Dhillon.

Okhai’s storytelling approach—featuring artisan journeys on its website and social media, along with blogs, campaigns, and collaborations—has bolstered its online presence, reaching 5+ million customers and achieving 4% year-on-year revenue growth in recent years.

Challenges & Market Corrections

Small businesses should interact with customers via dedicated channels, but a key challenge remains greenwashing. “People don’t understand true sustainability, and no formal checks exist to recognise brands doing it right,” says Reubens.

A transparent supply chain, where brands know the exact sources of metals and gemstones, alongside an organised marketplace and a monitoring body, would help strengthen sustainability efforts. The absence of such structures limits designers’ ability to repurpose waste productively.

Reubens shares an example: “We explored extracting silver from X-ray films, but sourcing them was incredibly difficult.”

The Bottom Line

Sustainability is no longer a choice but a necessity in a world grappling with climate change. Growth must be balanced with authenticity and impact. Unsustainable decisions—such as forced product development, mass production, or market-driven release deadlines—should be avoided.

Challenges often lead to creative solutions. When Palmonas had rejected or unused samples, they repurposed them into a statement jacket.

Certain ground rules remain non-negotiable. Sustainable jewellery is not meant to replace traditional heirloom pieces. Instead of blindly following trends, creatively integrating available resources into everyday life is the key to fostering sustainability in all markets, says Jaishankar.

March 23, 2025 at 12:54PM
https://www.fortuneindia.com/lifestyle/sustainable-jewellery-is-reshaping-fashion-but-can-it-outshine-fast-fashion/121349
Viji Sridhar

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